After a good feed of crab legs in Anchorage at Phyllis's Cafe & Salmon Bake, we headed south out of town - meeting an incredible line of boaters and sportsmen headed back into the city after the weekend. Maybe the August 1st weekend is a holiday in the U.S.?
After a fairly long drive south and west on Highway 1, we turned off onto the Skilak Lake Road.


We soon found a fairly deserted lake front campsite with a hiking trail to explore before dark.
There were some wolves howling across the lake at night to add to the wilderness experience.
Another beautiful, calm, quiet misty morning. But it was to be a busy day. First order of business was to find a car wash near Soldotna to wash off some of the accumulated grime from some of the road construction and gravel highway sections.
Then it was a propane fill on our way into Kenai, and a tank dump nearby. Then it was a badly needed oil change for the big GMC, even though it goes a long time between changes. Then we found a sauna and showers at the nearby rec center in Kenai.

Because of the early Russian influence throughout this area there are many Russian churches in this area. We visited this Russian Orthodox church that is one of the earliest buildings in this region.
There was a good coffee shop next door, so I got a caffeine fix as well.
We drove out of town on Kalifornsky road - which I assumed was named after California, but I was wrong. Sort of. Turns out it was named after the village founder, a Dena'ina Indian named Qadanalchen. But Qadanalchen had worked in California till 1821, and on returning to Alaska at that time, he took the name of Kalifornsky, the Russian equivalent of 'Californian'. So I guess I was right, after all. Sort of! Don't believe me, check it out in Wikipedia!

Then we stopped at a fish plant down the coast and bought some excellent salmon and halibut steaks.
We stopped at another historic Russian church on the coast at Ninichik (below).
On the way down to Homer, we passed through Anchor Point, which is as far west as you can drive anywhere in the US highway system at 59.777468, -151.770220

At Homer, we drove out onto the famous 'spit', which is packed with seasonal tourist and fishing outfitter businesses. Apparently we were told that about the only open business here in the winter is the Lands End Resort at the very end of the spit.
We almost stopped at the Salty Dawg saloon, but it was fairly full, and we were surprised to find smoking apparently allowed inside. You don't see that much any more.
Most fishing seemed to be done with charter companies, but there were a few fishing from shore.

The Seafarer's Memorial.
And the Salty Dawg one more time.
Fresh fish - right off the boats.
Some Halibut.
I was glad to see yet another travelling cat - and a very large one. This photo does not do justice to his size. Harley was 20 lbs at his biggest, but I'd wager 30+ for this guy. His 'rolling home appeared to be from New York!
The 'Spit Sisters' cafe and B&B.
Lots of boats out here!
It was feeding time, so we checked out a waterfront place (they're ALL waterfront on the spit) for shrimp and scallops. The view out the window.


And the food!
Time was short, so next we headed back north to around Cooper's landing to spend the night near Quartz creek.

When we left Valdez, Alaska on August 1st, we had to leave the coast and drive back up over Thompson pass. From the height of the markers on the sides of the road, it appears that snow depth here in winter is impressive.The weather was clearing a bit as we went over the pass. Because we had driven the road earlier in the day ...
Not everyone was paying attention, especially the navigator!
We stopped by Copper Center, just south of Glenallen and checked out the another of the historic Alaskan roadhouses. This one is still in operation as the Copper Center Lodge and there is a small museum next door.
In the same area, we checked out a very historic log church,
which still hosts occasional services, I believe.
Then from Glenallen, we headed for the coast at Anchorage again, via Palmer, Alaska.
Along the way was the very impressive Matanuska glacier.

Wikipedia says,

"Matanuska Glacier is a valley glacier in the U.S. state of Alaska. At 27 miles (39 km) long by four miles (6.4 km) wide, it is the largest glacier accessible by car in the United States. Its terminus is the source of the Matanuska River. It lies near the Glenn Highway about 100 miles (160 km) northeast of Anchorage. Matanuska Glacier is "active" and expands around one foot (30 cm) per day."
I found it quite amazing that even though the glacier is miles and miles long, parts of the surface appear very bright and clean; not dirty like many much shorter glaciers!
But conversely, parts of it are covered by massive debris fields so thick that even trees have grown on top of portions of it!
Click on the image below for an explanation of the phenomenon.
We wanted to camp somewhere prior to reaching Palmer, where we would visit a Muskox and a Reindeer farm the next day.
This spot was right between the highway and the raging Matanuska river - just below the glacier, but if filled the bill for the night.

And a quick video of the river, taken from the camp spot.

On the road to Valdez, Alaska, the Worthington glacier is immediately roadside as you climb into Thompson pass on the Richardson highway.
Snowfall in the pass must be extreme, judging by the height of the marker posts along the road.
Over the pass you begin the long descent to the coast.
There are many glaciers and waterfalls that can be seen from this route.

Finally, the port of Valdez, named after a Spanish explorer in 1790 became a town because of deception from steamship lines at the time of the gold rush. They promoted it as a faster easier way to the gold fields, but in fact it was twice as long and steep as promised. Many gold seekers perished on the route as a result.
There was a viewing platform for watching the fish spawn at the edge of town.

Video of spawning fish.


Of course, Valdez is probably most infamous for the oil spill of the Exxon Valdez, which hit a reef on March 24, 1989, eventually covering 11 million square miles of ocean with crude oil.We did not go out looking for any signs of this environmental tragedy, although I'm sure some of the effects will be felt for decades to come.
It was an overcast day, but we checked out the towns bakeries, grocery stores, museums, and of course filled up with fuel.

View of the town from a hill between the harbour and the town.
We did check out the price of taking the ferry to Whittier, the the price was over $300 for the truck and two of us. I presume the cat would ride free.
Next, retracing our route back to Copper Center and Glenallen.